Gettin’ Groggy in Silverton, CO

Silverton is an old mining town now known more for the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, the Alpine Loop drive, hellacious heli-skiing on Silverton Mountain along with it’s close proximity for hiking the many other 14ers in the San Juan Mountains. The Silverton back country was also the venue for Shawn White’s one of a kind snowboard super halfpipe built in 2009 by his sponsor, Red Bull. With plentiful snow and the solitude of Silverton, it was the perfect place for White to secretly train and perfect some new moves for competition in the 2010 Olympics. White, won gold in 2010… and also in 2006, 2014, 2018 and 2022. Pretty damn cool!

As you drive into Silverton from highway 550, turn on Shrine Road and visit the Christ of the Mines Shrine on Anvil Mountain. Standing 16′ tall and overlooking the town of Silverton, the statue is made of 12 tons of Italian Carrara marble (the same kind of stone as Michelangelo’s “David”) installed in 1959 to protect the miners and revitalize the towns spirits during a then depressed economy. The alcove surrounding the shrine is made of stone donated from the old Fischer Brewery (how cool is that)! You many leave a prayer or sign the towns visitor log inside the beautiful metal box.

Million Dollar Highway Baby!!
Watch the Colorado PBS documentary on the history of the highway here

The Million Dollar Highway is officially routed from Montrose to Durango on Highway 550, but the 25 mile stretch between Ouray and Silverton is amongst the most beautiful and dangerous portion of this highway (and the reason for the “Million Dollar” name which nobody can quite explain; perhaps because of the “million dollar” views or perhaps because you couldn’t pay me a “million dollars” to drive it)! On this narrow two lane highway, you will drive through the Uncompahgre Gorge and cross over three mountain passes; Coal Bank, Molas and Red Mountain Pass for mind blowing views and on some portions you can look straight down sheer cliff drops with no guardrails. Take your time on this short drive with all of its jagged cliffs and switchbacks, and stop at every viewpoint! I think whoever had the guts to build this road should have been paid a “million dollars” because it’s stunning!

On this portion of the Million Dollar Highway, there are an estimated seven deaths every year so it’s no joke. There are many other mountain passes in Colorado that are even more magnificent and more daunting, so go you must and enjoy them, however, please drive slow and be mindful of road signs and conditions. Driving in the Rocky Mountains should be taken seriously; stay hydrated at high altitudes, try not to drive in the mountains during ice or snow storms, have a small “survival” kit in your car, always tell a friend where you are going, drive with extra caution and always, drive sober. 15 Winter Driving Tips for Colorado’s Rockies | How to drive safe in the snow and ice (uncovercolorado.com)

Oh yah… BREWERIES!! There are only two breweries in Silverton; Avalanche Brewery and Golden Block Brewery. Avalanche Brewery is a restaurant known for it’s pizza, and has a list of craft beers posted on the wall – we tried the Dunkel and Pride of the West beers and they were OK.

Golden Block Brewery – the Whoop Arse Scottish Ale and Goldenbach were good, as well as the wood fired pizza and grilled panini’s. I say good, not great, but that’s OK. Silverton is really old town, rustic and remote, and probably lucky to have two breweries at all… and I wouldn’t change a thing! Colorado’s old mining and ski towns are a rare piece of history as if stepping back in time, with the old buildings and dirt roads, ice cream and antique shops. I like to sit on a bench and watch the clouds roll over the mountain peaks and imagine the pioneers and miners who built this town… how difficult life must have been for them in this very rugged country. In my opinion, it’s a gift to be able to visit this quiet little town that hasn’t changed much since 1860; there are no urban developments, no traffic or crowds. So good beer or not, who cares, Silverton and other similar old mountain towns here, are perfect just the way they are!

For some excellent BBQ, go to Thee Pitts Again – try the brisket sandwich and homemade mashed potatoes with gravy… it is AweSOWme! Ha ha.

A shout out to the folks at Silverton Lakes RV Resort. In keeping with our rustic town vacation theme, we stayed in a glamping site (if “glamping” means a wood hut with no water, no heat, no wifi, no electricity… and no bathroom)! It’s not really THAT glamorous but it is something different to try… and it was gorgeous. Hey, I can rough it for ONE night! If you find yourself in a glamping situation such as this; before you book, make sure the bathroom facilities are somewhat NEAR your glamper, bring sleeping bags and a space heater, snacks and of course, a growler of BEER!